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Synthetic Gems
Explore lab-created gemstones and how they differ from natural gems.
Overview
Synthetic gems are laboratory-grown crystals that have the same chemical composition, crystal structure, and physical properties as their natural counterparts. They are real gems, just created by humans rather than nature. Understanding synthetics is crucial for identification, valuation, and making informed purchasing decisions.
What Are Synthetic Gems?
Synthetic gems are genuine, just artificially created:
Definition: Synthetic gems have identical chemical and physical properties to natural gems. They are not "fake" - they are real gemstones created in laboratories rather than by geological processes.
Chemical Composition: Synthetic ruby has the same Al₂O₃ composition as natural ruby. Synthetic emerald is beryl (Be₃Al₂Si₆O₁₈), just like natural emerald.
Crystal Structure: Synthetics have the same crystal structure as natural gems, which is why they share all physical properties like hardness, refractive index, and specific gravity.
Legal Status: Synthetics must be disclosed as such when sold. They are legitimate gemstones but should be clearly identified. Federal Trade Commission guidelines require disclosure.
Value: Synthetics are typically much less expensive than natural gems of equivalent quality, making them accessible alternatives for jewelry.
Manufacturing Methods
Different techniques create different types of synthetics:
Flame Fusion (Verneuil Process): Powdered chemicals are melted in a flame and dropped onto a rotating pedestal, forming a boule (pear-shaped crystal). Used for ruby, sapphire, spinel, and rutile. Creates characteristic curved growth lines.
Czochralski Method: A seed crystal is dipped into molten material and slowly pulled up while rotating. The crystal grows on the seed. Used for high-quality synthetic ruby, sapphire, and alexandrite. Produces very clean crystals.
Flux Growth: Materials are dissolved in a flux (molten salt) at high temperature. Crystals grow slowly as the solution cools. Used for emerald, ruby, and sapphire. Creates inclusions that can mimic natural gems.
Hydrothermal Growth: Mimics natural conditions - materials are dissolved in water under high pressure and temperature. Crystals grow on seed plates. Used for quartz, emerald, and some other gems. Creates very natural-looking crystals.
Skull Melting: Used for cubic zirconia. Zirconium oxide powder is heated until it melts, then slowly cooled to form crystals.
High Pressure, High Temperature (HPHT): Used for synthetic diamond. Recreates the extreme conditions where natural diamonds form.
Identifying Synthetics
Several features help distinguish synthetics from naturals:
Growth Patterns: Synthetic gems often show characteristic growth features. Flame fusion creates curved striae (growth lines). Flux-grown gems may show flux inclusions (cloudy areas, veils, or fingerprint-like patterns).
Inclusions: Natural gems have specific inclusion types. Synthetics may have inclusions, but they're different. For example, natural emerald has three-phase inclusions, while synthetic may have two-phase or flux inclusions.
Color Distribution: Natural gems often show color zoning (uneven color distribution). Some synthetics have very even color, while others may show curved or other unnatural zoning patterns.
UV Fluorescence: Some synthetics fluoresce differently than naturals. For example, some synthetic diamonds show different fluorescence patterns than natural diamonds.
Advanced Testing: Spectroscopy, X-ray analysis, and other advanced methods can reveal manufacturing signatures. Professional gemological labs use these for definitive identification.
Documentation: Always ask for disclosure. Reputable sellers will clearly identify synthetics. Certificates from gemological labs will state if a gem is synthetic.
Common Synthetic Gems
Many gem types are available as synthetics:
Synthetic Diamond: Created by HPHT or CVD (Chemical Vapor Deposition). Indistinguishable from natural without advanced testing. Used in jewelry and industrial applications.
Synthetic Ruby and Sapphire: Very common, created by various methods. Much more affordable than natural. Used extensively in jewelry.
Synthetic Emerald: Flux-grown and hydrothermal synthetics are available. Can be difficult to distinguish from natural without expertise.
Synthetic Quartz: Amethyst, citrine, and other quartz varieties are easily synthesized. Very common and affordable.
Cubic Zirconia (CZ): Not technically a synthetic diamond (different composition), but a popular diamond simulant. Very affordable and widely used.
Synthetic Spinel: Created in many colors. Often used as a simulant for other gems or valued for its own beauty.
Moissanite: Silicon carbide, originally found in meteorites but now primarily synthetic. Popular diamond alternative with high brilliance and durability.
Synthetics vs. Simulants
Important distinction:
Synthetics: Same composition and properties as natural gems. Synthetic ruby IS ruby, just lab-grown. Must be disclosed but are genuine gemstones.
Simulants: Different materials that look similar. Cubic zirconia simulates diamond but is not diamond. Glass can simulate many gems but has different properties.
Value Difference: Synthetics are real gems and have value, though less than naturals. Simulants are typically much less valuable.
Identification: Synthetics require careful examination or advanced testing. Simulants are usually easily identified by physical properties (hardness, RI, SG).
Ethical Considerations: Some prefer naturals for their geological history and rarity. Others choose synthetics for ethical reasons (no mining) or affordability. Both are valid choices when properly disclosed.